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Paris, France
I'm not a Paris insider, by any stretch of the imagination, but I have a few favorite places to go when I'm there, touristy and non-touristy. There are also many Paris insider websites out there to help you do some research. One I like to check is Paris Notebook. |
Car head tripThe guy at the car rental agency had a sick sense of humor, I'll give him that. On one of those "pouring rain, now it's not, now it's pouring" days, we decided we would stay on plan and brave the drive out to Chartres. None of us had ever driven an automobile in Paris before (you can hear the gods cackling already) but we scurried gamely across the river and swam toward the Carrousel du Louvre and shook ourselves out like wet Labradors in front of the rental office. The car transaction went well. Check. Got directions on how to get to the highway. Check. Found car in the garage. Check. Car turns on, heat on, windshield wipers in order. Check, check, check. C'est bien. So far. My husband sets the car in motion and we make the turn out of the garage and left, as the man told us. Left turn puts us on the Rue du Rivoli. Nice man said "Make next left." (Those of you who know Paris know where we're going with this.) Next left puts you onto the Place de la Concorde. I think I saw this in a movie once. It was called "Ben Hur." Round the Obélisque, the rain is slapping against the windshield, our reins are swinging wildly. "Which way? Which way?!" shouts my husband. I still assert that I answered quite calmly, "Follow that van across the bridge." Well, perhaps it was a little more terse than that. Now, a year later, we can look back and agree how nice it is that drivers in Paris are decisive. It makes you a bit quicker on your feet. Or wheels. Driving tips from Petite Anglaise. ______________________________ Eating AroundSome of the places we like to eat at in Paris: L'Ardoise, 28 rue Mont Thabor, 1st., 011-33-1-42-96-28-18. Fabulous market menu concoctions from PIerre Jay. Michelin star quality, without the Michelin star attitude or pricetag. Marche Bastille Farmers Market, Richard Lenoir at Place Bastille Thursday and Sunday from 9-1 pm. A fantastic place for produce, meat, cheese and bread, plus random household items. L'Ami Jean, 27 rue Malar, 7th, 011-33-1-47-05-86-89, a Basque/French style menu offering imaginative 30 Euro prix fixe meals. Now run by Stephane Jego of La Regalade. Taillevent (Wine tastings) 199 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré Métro Charles de Gaulle Etoile, 8th Arrondissement, 011-33-01 45 61 14 09. Sure we eat there all the time. Not. but you can do their free Saturday tastings from the legendary wine cellar from 10 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. Visit the website and click on (in French only) “Les Caves Taillevent,” then “Nos Prestations” and then “Les Degustations" for the schedule.
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HOTELS
Hôtel Langlois, 63 rue Saint Lazare, 9th,
Tel: (011-33) (1) 48 74 78 24. Hotel Quai Voltaire has the distinction of being the second to last hotel that Oscar Wilde stayed in before he died. It has a bit of that look -- you know, where writers who are down on their luck stay shortly before they expire. But it is clean, and spectacularly located facing the Seine just opposite the Louvre. Literally steps away from the Musée d'Orsay on the Left Bank. If you get a room facing the river, you can get a fantastic feeling of throwing open the windows and gazing across Paris in the morning, but beware, the traffic can be very loud. There's no air conditioning and if it's hot, you'll want the windows open. Hotel Jeanne d'Arc is a hotel that I've only heard good things about. I've never stayed there, but it is located in the Marais close to the Place des Vosges, and comes recommended by friends as a great budget option -- miniscule elevator notwithstanding. If you know anything about it, email me!
The Hôtel-Hospitel Dieu, 1 Place du Parvis Notre Dame, 4th, Tel: (011-33) 1 44 32 01 00, is another hotel that sounds thoroughly intriguing. Is it a hotel? Is it a hospital? Yes, indeedy, it's both. It stands immediately opposite Notre Dame on the Ile de la Cité in the top floor of the hospital founded in 651 A.D. by Saint Landry. Honestly, how can you beat that? Le Petit Chatelet, 9 rue Saint Denis, 1st, Tel: (011-33) 1 42 33 32 31, is a collection of simple, tastefully furnished apartments at not unreasonable prices if you're looking for that "living in Paris" experience--especially if that experience includes living in the 1st. |
EATSIf I were allowed, I would take a large steamer trunk to Paris every month, fill it with goodies and have it shipped back to me. Cheese: Cheese is not hard to find in France. To say the least. We've gazed through the window at the austere and intimidating Marie-Anne Cantin(12 rue du Champ-de-Mars, 7th), and been advised to go to M. Barthelemy (12, rue du Champ-de-Mars, 7th), but most endearing was the little neighborhood fromagerie at 31 rue Cler. Not intimidating at all! Phew!
Chocolate: Okay, I understand that there are tons of chocolate places out there, but I just can't get that soft, melting sigh anyplace but at La Maison du Chocolate. The staff is always immaculately outfitted in chocolate appropriate businesswear, but it was one of the few places where we just bit back the fear of intimidation and bought as many chocolates as a tourist could afford (not many). But one little bite and you'll go floating down the street like the red balloon. Gelato: Move over Berthillon. Sorry, but it's the gelato at Amorino that makes my husband misty-eyed when we think of summer in Paris. Seven location all over Paris include: 82, rue Montorgueil (2nd), 47 rue Saint Louis en L’Ile (4th), 31 rue Vieille du Temple (4th), 4 rue Vavin (6th), 4 rue de Buci (6th), Lafayette maison - 35 bd Haussmann (9th), 17 rue Daguerre (14th) Bread: Pain Poilâne (8, rue du Cherche-Midi) is all over Paris, and for good reason. Personally I like to stand just inside the shop door like a little Eponine and sniff the air -- that fantastic baking bread smell.
Dishware: Porcelaines M.P.Samie is like a crackhouse for those of us who love French white dinnerware. Two giant floors of goodies can be found at 45, avenue du Général Leclerc in the 14th Arr. |